Daniel Twardowski – Neumagen-Dhron, Mosel, Germany

Daniel Twardowski – Neumagen-Dhron, Mosel, Germany

Introduction

When we visited Germany in early 2025, we knew we had to check out this improbable Pinot project in the Mosel. Pinot Noir on steep, slate terraces traditionally reserved for Riesling sounded almost mad, yet the wines make the case undeniable. Compared to many Burgundies, the value is compelling.

Daniel Twardowski, a longtime Burgundy collector and merchant, planted Pinot Noir in Dhroner Hofberg in 2005 using cuttings from Clos de la Roche, Richebourg, and Romanée-St-Vivant. Today he farms just over 3 hectares, crafting precise Mosel Pinot Noir – taut, mineral, and site-driven. The name Pinot Noix is a nod to the walnut trees bordering the vineyard, with the raven on the label symbolizing resourcefulness and audacity. Like the raven cracking walnuts, Daniel unlocks a new expression of Pinot Noir from slate soils.

In the Vineyard

Farming is low-yield and hands-on. Canopy management, green harvesting, and manual labor regulate vigor and airflow. Cover crops sustain biodiversity and soil structure. Chemicals are minimized, with disease pressure handled through leaf work and openness. Harvest is manual in multiple passes, ensuring balance and finesse.

In the Cellar

Grapes are hand-sorted, gravity-fed, and fermented in open vats with native yeasts. Fermentation lasts 2–3 weeks at cool temperatures with gentle extraction. Malolactic fermentation is natural. Élevage spans 17–18 months in small Burgundian and Bordeaux barriques, with barrel use tailored by cuvée. Wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Style

The aim is to channel Riesling’s precision into Pinot Noir: taut acidity, mineral drive, moderate alcohol, and fine tannins. Oak frames the wine without dominating. Built for early drinkability yet capable of aging gracefully, the wines emphasize clarity and balance.

Wines

Pinot Noix 3rd
From 10–12-year-old Pinot vines propagated from Burgundian selections. Grey slate soils with iron oxide. Yields around 35 hl/ha. Spontaneous fermentation in open vats, followed by 17–18 months in mostly used oak. Minimal to no new wood.

Pinot Noix Ardoise
Mid-aged Pinot vines (15–18 years) on shallow slate soils. Yields restricted to 30–35 hl/ha. Hand-harvested in multiple passes. Fermented with native yeasts, aged 17–18 months in small oak, 25–30% new.

Pinot Noix Hofberg Réserve
Flagship cuvée from 40–70-year-old Riesling vines grafted to Pinot Noir. Naturally low yields (25 hl/ha). Fermented with native yeasts, aged 17–18 months in barriques, up to 50% new oak. Production limited to ~1,300 bottles annually.

Hofberg Riesling
From ungrafted Riesling vines over 70 years old on grey slate. Extremely low yields. Bottled in minute quantities, mostly reserved for private clients and friends.

Sekt (Extra Brut & Rosé)
Traditional-method sparkling wines from Pinot Noir grown in Hofberg. Secondary fermentation in bottle with extended lees aging. Small-production, mineral-driven sparkling expressions.

Links

Instagram
Website